Spanish Wine Exclusives

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Spanish Wine Exclusives

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Adur is a very small, vineyard-driven winery comprised of small plots set in the hills overlooking the seaside Basque town of Getaria in the north of Spain. It is a personal project, founded in 2010, by the husband and wife team of Maitena Barrero and Héctor Gómez, both accomplished winemakers and agronomists. Their dedication and love of their vineyards combined with their non-interventionist skills in the vineyard and winery result in brilliant Txakoli wines.

The core secret of Adur’s quality—something akin to a single vineyard Sancerre—is their work in the vineyards. Harvesting ripe, healthy grapes is the primary challenge of the region, due to all the rain and lack of sun. Their overall philosophy is non-interventionist, adopting their own techniques in canopy management and other methods in conjunction with the traditional high trellises of the area to better avoid the threat of mold and mildew. And this hard work is part of what makes Adur such a pleasure to drink.

We witnessed the challenges of viticulture there ourselves while visiting, when a wizened neighbor vigneron stopped by. He was puzzled how it was that Maitena and Héctor’s vines were in relatively good shape, while there was some mildew going around in the area. They had no one answer, besides working the vines. It was rather a combination of small things in the vineyards that enable them to seek out a deeper intensity, body and minerality than is typical of the traditionally spritzy Txakoli of the area.
The other secret, which they pioneered in the region, is long lees aging—a year or more—that gives their wines an additional richness and complexity not usually found in the appellation. Long lees aging is no longer a secret in the area, and is now employed elsewhere in high end cuvées. However, Adur XO, their newest wine, continues their pioneering spirit and takes Txakoli to yet a further level of complexity and depth through deft barrel aging in addition to long lees aging. All their efforts have combined to create two distinctive and expressive Txakoli wines and show what the Hondarribi Zuri grape can achieve when treated with such a high level of dedication, talent and vision.